When to plant apple trees in Oregon and Washington
In Portland: Plant apple trees Mar 1 – Apr 26. In Bend: Apr 28 – Jun 23. Find your city below.
Difficulty
Moderate
Sun
Full sun
Spacing
8 to 12 feet apart for dwarf trees, 15 to 20 feet for semi-dwarf
Planting depth
Graft union 2 to 3 inches above the soil
Frost
Hardy perennial; comes back every year
First harvest
First apples in two to four years on dwarf trees, longer on bigger ones
Choose a scab-resistant variety: apple scab spreads in wet Northwest springs and is the main reason backyard apples look rough west of the Cascades. Most apples need a second variety nearby that blooms at the same time.
Pick a sunny spot with soil that drains well, and mix in an inch or two of compost.
Plant apple trees on your city's dates, 8 to 12 feet apart for dwarf trees, 15 to 20 feet for semi-dwarf. Graft union 2 to 3 inches above the soil.
Water deeply every week or two through the first two summers. Prune in late winter to an open shape, and thin young fruit to one per cluster in June for bigger apples.
Harvest: Apples are ripe when the seeds turn brown and the fruit comes off with a gentle lift and twist. Taste one before picking the tree.
Key numbers
2–4 (dwarf)Years to fruit
Needs a partnerPollination
6.0–7.0Soil pH
Apple scabBiggest risk
Growing notes
What makes the difference in Northwest gardens, in plain language.
Choosing a variety and rootstock
The rootstock decides how big your tree gets and how soon it fruits. Dwarfing rootstocks such as M9 or M26 keep trees small enough to prune and pick from the ground, and they bear sooner, but they have weak roots and need a permanent stake. Semi-dwarf rootstocks like M7 make a sturdier, freestanding tree that takes a few more years to start.
West of the Cascades, scab resistance matters more than anything else. Liberty shrugs off scab in wet springs, and Akane holds up well too. Honeycrisp and Gravenstein are worth growing for flavor, but expect more spraying or more spotted fruit in rainy years.
Pollination partners
Almost every apple needs pollen from a different variety that blooms at the same time, carried by bees. A neighbor's tree or a crabapple within a few hundred feet often does the job, but planting two compatible varieties is the sure way. Gravenstein produces poor pollen, so it needs two other varieties nearby: one to pollinate it and one to pollinate the partner. Liberty, Akane and Honeycrisp all bloom in the middle of the season and work well together.
Northwest pests and how to stay ahead
Apple scab is a fungus that spreads from last year's fallen leaves during spring rain, so raking and composting leaves in fall cuts the next year's infection a lot. Codling moth larvae tunnel to the core in summer; hang traps in May to see when the moths fly, and bag young fruit in paper or nylon sleeves if you want clean apples without spraying.
Apple maggot also attacks fruit in parts of the region, and some eastern growing areas restrict moving homegrown apples. Picking up dropped fruit every week helps with both maggots and moths.
Common questions about growing apple trees
Do I need two apple trees?
Usually, yes. Most apples won't set much fruit without pollen from a different variety that blooms at the same time. If a neighbor has an apple or crabapple close by, one tree may be enough, but planting two is the reliable choice.
When should I plant an apple tree in the Northwest?
Plant bare-root trees in late winter and early spring while they're dormant, as soon as the soil isn't soggy. Potted trees can go in later, but they'll need more summer water the first year.
Why are my apples covered in black spots?
That's most likely apple scab, a fungus that thrives in wet Northwest springs. The fruit is still edible once peeled. Rake up fallen leaves each fall and consider a resistant variety like Liberty next time you plant.
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