In Portland: Plant fig trees Mar 15 – May 10. In Bend: May 12 – Jul 7. Find your city below.
Difficulty
Moderate
Sun
Full sun; against a warm south or west wall
Spacing
10 to 15 feet apart
Planting depth
Same depth as in the pot, or a little deeper
Frost
Hardy to about 10 to 15°F once established; young trees need protection
First harvest
Often a few figs in the first two years
West of the Cascades, the early (breba) crop ripens most reliably, so pick a variety like Desert King that sets one. Plant against a south or west wall. In cold eastern areas, grow figs in large pots and move them into a garage for winter.
Pick a sunny spot with soil that drains well, and mix in an inch or two of compost.
Plant fig trees on your city's dates, 10 to 15 feet apart. Same depth as in the pot, or a little deeper.
Water deeply through the first summer. Mulch the base heavily in fall, and wrap young trees in frost cloth when temperatures drop toward the teens.
Harvest: Figs don't ripen after picking. Wait until they droop on the stem, feel soft and the skin starts to crack slightly.
Key numbers
10–15°F, establishedCold hardiness
Not neededPollination
South or west wallBest spot
Breba, early summerReliable crop (west)
Growing notes
What makes the difference in Northwest gardens, in plain language.
Two crops a year, and why it matters here
Many figs make two crops. The breba crop forms on last year's wood and ripens in early to mid summer. The main crop forms on this year's new growth and ripens in late summer and fall. In cool west-side summers, the main crop often runs out of warmth before it finishes, so varieties that set a good breba crop, like Desert King, are the most dependable choice.
Lattarula, Brown Turkey and Chicago Hardy can ripen a main crop in warm spots or in warmer years. Common figs like these set fruit without pollination, so one tree is plenty.
Planting and winter protection
Plant figs where they'll get the most heat: against a south or west wall, a fence or pavement that holds warmth. They aren't fussy about soil as long as it drains. Water deeply through the first summer, then occasionally in dry spells.
Young trees are the most vulnerable to hard freezes. Mulch the base well in fall and wrap the tree in frost cloth when temperatures head toward the teens. Even if the top dies, figs usually regrow from the roots, though you'll lose a year or two of fruit. In cold eastern areas, grow figs in large pots and move them into an unheated garage for winter.
Pruning and harvest
Figs need little pruning. Remove dead and crossing wood in late winter once the worst cold is past. Avoid cutting back every branch, since the breba crop grows on last year's wood and heavy pruning removes it.
Pick figs when they droop on the stem, feel soft and the skin starts to crack slightly. An unripe fig will not ripen on the counter. Birds and wasps find ripe figs quickly, so check daily during harvest.
Common questions about growing fig trees
Can figs grow in Seattle or Portland?
Yes. Figs do well west of the Cascades when planted in a warm, sunny spot. Choose a variety with a reliable early crop like Desert King, and protect young trees in hard freezes.
Why do my figs fall off before they ripen?
Small green figs that form in late summer are main-crop figs that run out of heat in a cool fall. They drop or stay hard over winter. This is normal west of the Cascades; the breba crop the next summer is the one to count on.
Do figs need a pollinator?
No. The common figs sold for home gardens set fruit without pollination, so a single tree will bear on its own.
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